TRI Attends the 42nd SICC National Congress & 1ST IPCE Conference in Stresa, Italy

Ernesta Malinauskyte attended an international conference which covered the following topics: make-up and skin sensory evaluation, skincare formulation and its quality assessment areas, as well as insights of the personal care future research.

The most interesting and thought provoking presentations were as follows:

-Use of lipidomics to better understand skin properties, by Marica Orioli, Milan University. The author used a direct infusion MS approach (shotgun lipidomics) to detect and characterize different lipids from human skin, as well as LipidMaps database for building block analysis (different fragments of skin were analyzed to obtain the structural information). This method opens new horizons for the large-scale evaluation of alterations in lipids, as well as its significance and sequelae in biological functions in cells (ie: changes in skin lipid composition can represent a biomarker of skin disease or aging stage).

-Interplay between keratinocytes and skin microbiota by Sabrina Leoty Okombi, BASF. Content rich presentation discussing the correlation between skin barrier functions and the presence of Staphylococcus epidermidis and Staphylococcus aureus. Also, the use of yeast extract for the manipulation of Staphylococcus species, resulting in positive changes in lipid content and water retention was covered in depth.

-Evaluating the safety and claim substantiation of cosmetic product containing bioactive peptide by Margaret Kraeling, US FDA. The author presented a case study of acetyl hexapeptide-8, which is claimed to interfere with neuromuscular signaling, resulting in the possibility of it being used as an anti-wrinkle agent. The peptide (without penetration enhancers) that penetrated the skin remained predominantly in the stratum corneum. Consequently, it was not as effective as originally claimed. Nevertheless, the FDA considers it a drug if the claims are kept. The confusion stems from what exactly makes a compound a drug? Is it the mechanism of action and its effectiveness, or the claim?

-The Ocular Irritection® Assay for eye hazard identification by Ilaria Rosini, Chantra Eskes, Federica d’Abrosca, Amy Wang, Rich Ulmer, Davide Faccini (cooperation of INT.E.G.RA, SeCAM, and In Vitro International). The researchers developed an alternative to a Draize eye test (uses rabbits), which is a macromolecular biochemical test method based on the premise that eye irritation and corneal opacity after exposure to irritating substances is the result of perturbation and denaturation of corneal proteins. The test results are highly reproducible within and between laboratories; the assay is fast, inexpensive & has been included in the OECD work program.

-Neurocharacterization of lip products sensory profile: use electroencephalography (EEG) and galvanic skin response (GSR) for evaluating rub-out by Simone Lombardi (Neuroemotika Srt) & Annamaria Ratti (Bregaglio Srt). The method is based on the evaluation of an emotional state and the physiological reactions using neuroscientific methodologies and instruments. The software can quantify and evaluate real time changes of the physiological variations registered by EEG and GSR. If validated properly, it could be complementary or even replace part of sensorial analysis and would give cosmetic manufacturers extraordinary competitive advantages.

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